Everything you need to know about lavender seeds

Growing Lavender Seeds: Questions & Answers

How do I plant lavender seeds?
Planting lavender seeds requires some patience, as they can take time to germinate. Start by stratifying the seeds, which involves placing them in a sealed plastic bag with a bit of damp sand and refrigerating them for 3-4 weeks. This cold treatment mimics the natural winter conditions and improves germination rates. After stratification, sow the seeds in a light, well-draining soil mix, just barely covering them with a thin layer of soil. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place the seed trays in a warm, sunny location or under grow lights, maintaining a temperature of around 70°F.


When is the best time to plant lavender seeds?
The best time to plant lavender seeds is in early spring, after the last frost has passed and temperatures have warmed up. Lavender seeds need warmth and light to germinate, so planting them in the spring allows them to take advantage of the increasing sunlight and warmer temperatures. If you start seeds indoors, you can begin the process 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost. This gives the seedlings a head start, allowing you to transplant them outdoors when the weather is favorable. In regions with mild winters, you can also plant lavender seeds in the fall.


How long does it take for lavender seeds to germinate?
Lavender seeds can take anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks to germinate, although sometimes it can take even longer. The germination process can be slow and sporadic, so don’t be discouraged if the seeds don’t sprout immediately. Keeping the soil temperature warm and providing plenty of light will help encourage germination. Stratifying the seeds before planting can also improve germination rates. Patience is key when growing lavender from seed, as even under ideal conditions, it can take time for the seeds to sprout.


Can lavender be grown indoors?
Yes, lavender can be grown indoors, but it requires plenty of light and good air circulation to thrive. Choose a sunny window that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily, or use a grow light if natural light is insufficient. Lavender prefers well-draining soil, so use a potting mix designed for cacti or succulents, and make sure the container has drainage holes to prevent water from accumulating. Indoor lavender can be more prone to pests and diseases due to the lack of air movement, so keep an eye on the plants and ensure the room is well-ventilated. It typically performs better outdoors where it can receive more sunlight and natural airflow.


How often should I water lavender seeds?
Lavender seeds need consistent moisture during the germination period, but it’s crucial not to overwater them. Water the seeds lightly and regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Overwatering can lead to fungal issues or rot, especially since lavender prefers well-drained soil. Once the seeds have germinated and seedlings appear, you can reduce the frequency of watering, allowing the top 2-3 cm of soil to dry out between waterings. Established lavender plants are drought-tolerant and prefer to be on the drier side, so avoid overwatering as they grow.


What type of soil is best for growing lavender?
Lavender thrives in well-drained, sandy or loamy soil with a slightly alkaline pH between 6.5 and 7.5. It does not do well in heavy, clay soils that retain too much moisture, as this can lead to root rot. If your garden soil is heavy or poorly drained, consider amending it with sand or gravel to improve drainage or planting lavender in raised beds or containers. A soil mix designed for cacti or succulents can work well for lavender, as it provides the drainage the plants need. Lavender prefers nutrient-poor soil, so avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to excessive foliage growth and fewer flowers.


Can lavender be grown in containers?
Yes, lavender grows very well in containers, which is a great option if you have limited garden space or if your garden soil isn’t suitable for lavender. Choose a pot that is at least 30-40 cm in diameter and has good drainage holes. Use a well-draining soil mix, such as one designed for cacti or succulents, to prevent waterlogging. Container-grown lavender may need to be watered more frequently than plants in the ground, especially during hot weather, but be careful not to overwater. Position the container in a sunny spot where the lavender will receive at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day.


How do I thin lavender seedlings, and why is it important?
Thinning lavender seedlings is important to prevent overcrowding, which can lead to poor air circulation, competition for nutrients, and increased susceptibility to diseases. Once the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves, thin them out by snipping the weaker or smaller plants at the soil level, leaving the stronger seedlings spaced about 30 cm apart. Thinning allows the remaining seedlings to grow stronger and healthier, with more room for their roots to develop. This practice also reduces the risk of fungal diseases, as well-spaced plants dry out more quickly after watering. Properly thinned seedlings are more likely to develop into robust, flowering lavender plants.


How do I transplant lavender seedlings into the garden?
When your lavender seedlings have developed a strong root system and are about 7-10 cm tall, they’re ready to be transplanted into the garden. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and prepare the area by loosening the soil and amending it with sand or gravel if needed. Dig holes that are slightly larger than the root balls of the seedlings and space them about 30-45 cm apart. Carefully remove the seedlings from their pots, keeping the root balls intact, and plant them at the same depth they were growing in their containers. Water the seedlings lightly after transplanting to help them settle in, but avoid overwatering, as lavender prefers drier conditions.


How do I harvest lavender, and when is the best time to do it?
The best time to harvest lavender is in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day, when the essential oils in the flowers are most concentrated. Wait until the flowers are fully open for the highest oil content if you’re using the lavender for essential oils or sachets. To harvest, use sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut the flower stems just above the leaves, leaving some green growth on the plant to encourage more blooms. If you’re harvesting for culinary purposes, you can cut the stems earlier, when the buds are just starting to open, as the flavor is more delicate at this stage. Regular harvesting can also encourage the plant to produce more flowers throughout the growing season.


How can I prevent lavender from becoming woody?
Lavender naturally becomes woody over time, especially if it’s not pruned regularly. To prevent this, prune your lavender plants each year, either in early spring or after the first flush of flowers. Cut back about one-third of the plant, focusing on removing older, woodier growth while leaving some green stems. Avoid cutting into the old, woody parts of the plant, as lavender doesn’t regrow well from these areas. Regular pruning helps maintain the plant’s shape, encourages new growth, and increases flower production, keeping your lavender bushy and productive for years.


Why is my lavender turning brown, and how can I fix it?
Lavender turning brown can be a sign of several issues, including overwatering, poor drainage, or disease. Overwatering or waterlogged soil can cause root rot, leading to browning leaves. To fix this, ensure the soil is well-draining and reduce watering frequency, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. If the browning is due to disease, such as fungal infections, remove the affected parts of the plant and improve air circulation around the lavender by spacing the plants appropriately and pruning regularly. In some cases, brown spots can also result from too much humidity or poor air circulation, so try to grow lavender in a location with good airflow and low humidity.


Can I grow lavender from cuttings instead of seeds?
Yes, growing lavender from cuttings is often easier and faster than growing it from seeds. Take softwood cuttings from new growth in the spring or early summer, choosing healthy, non-flowering stems about 10-15 cm long. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting and dip the cut end in rooting hormone to encourage root development. Plant the cuttings in a well-draining potting mix and keep them in a warm, bright location out of direct sunlight. Mist the cuttings regularly to maintain humidity, and roots should begin to form in 2-4 weeks. Once the cuttings have established roots, they can be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.


What pests and diseases should I watch out for when growing lavender?
Lavender is generally pest-resistant due to its strong fragrance, but it can occasionally be affected by pests like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. These pests can be managed by regularly inspecting the plants and using insecticidal soap or neem oil if infestations occur. Lavender is also susceptible to fungal diseases, particularly in humid conditions or if the soil is too wet. Root rot, caused by overwatering or poor drainage, is a common issue, so it’s important to ensure the soil is well-drained and avoid overhead watering. Powdery mildew can also affect lavender, especially in areas with high humidity; improving air circulation and avoiding excessive watering can help prevent this.


Can lavender reseed itself?
Lavender can reseed itself, particularly in warm climates where the plants are left to flower and go to seed. However, lavender seeds often take time to germinate and may not produce plants identical to the parent due to cross-pollination. If you prefer to control where new lavender plants grow, you can collect the seeds once the flowers have dried and plant them where you want. Keep in mind that lavender seedlings may take a year or more to mature and start flowering. For more predictable results, many gardeners prefer to propagate lavender through cuttings rather than relying on self-seeding.